IPE

BOTANICAL NAME: The various species listed as ipe used to be all in the genus Tabebuia but there has been a change and now many of them are in the genus Handroanthus with the old Tabebuia names as synonyms of the Handoranthus names. This is what I have. It may not be complete and I list only a few of the many common names of each species. Most vendors still sell ipe as Tabebuia spp.
COMMON NAMES: bethabara, Brazilian walnut, greenheart, ipe tabaco, ironwood, lapacho, pau d'arco, peúva, proba-de-campos, yellow poui, and in one of those moronic designations of the flooring industry, "Patagonian walnut" (delusions of grandure). Note that lapacho is a common alternate name, but this can be confusing because there are several unrelated species that are ALSO called lapacho.

TYPE: hardwood

COLOR: Sapwood is whitish to yellowish, sharply demarcated from the heartwood which is olive brown, sometimes dark brown, sometimes with darker streaks. Heartwood sometimes has red and amber hues. There are a lot of different subspecies and the color range is significant.

I have been informed by an apparently knowledgeable correspondent that ipe that grows in different locations takes on significantly different colors due to the fact that this tree in particular sucks minerals up through the roots so the color can depend significantly on the particular soil it grows in. He notes in particular that in the USA most ipe is from the amazon whereas ipe that grows near the coast generally has quite a different color than Amazonian ipe.

GRAIN: various reports say interlocked, straight, irregular, and tight. My own experience is that it is sometimes straight grained but more often interlocked, and in either case it is tight-grained.

TEXTURE: fine to medium

PROPERTIES / WORKABILITY: Very high strength in all categories and a very dense, hard, heavy, strong, tough, resilient wood. Difficult to work, especially in sawing. Severe blunting effect on cutters. Reduced cutting angle required for planing or moulding. Pre-drilling required for nailing. Holds screws well. Stains and polishes well. Heavier and two to three times harder than Oak. Sands very well for such a tough wood and sanding alone can produce a beautiful satin finish. Premium carbide tipped saw blades and high quality drills are recommended for smooth cuts due to the hardness. Pre-drill a pilot hole and countersink when using screws as fasteners. glues well

DURABILITY: Very high resistence to all insect and fungal attacks, extremely resistent to preservative treatment, very durable both chemically and physically. Reportedly can be used in ground contact without preservatives or additional treatments.

FINISH: finishes well

STABILITY: Very small movement in service

BENDING: various reports say "resistent to bending" and "high bending strength"

ODOR: no distinctive odor or taste

SOURCES: Throughout South and Central America plus the Caribbean. The tree grows on a variety of sites, from ridge tops to riverbanks and marsh forests.

USES: archery bows, bridges, cabinet work, civil constructions, decking, decorative veneers, dock work, exterior construction, factory flooring, fishing rods, flooring, heavy construction, industrial flooring, naval construction, railroad crossties, textile mill items, tool handles, turnery, veneers, walking sticks, window and door frames

TREE: The trees routinely grow to 150 feet, and can reach 200 feet, with trunk diameters of 6 feet and boles clear to 60 feet or more.

WEIGHT: varies between 60lbs to 75 lbs per cu. ft. which implies that sometimes it will float, although barely, and sometimes will not. I have been told that the density is at least somewhat due to the fact that it is a slow-growth tree.

DRYING: Dries rapidly with slight warping, cupping, twisting and end checking. Slow kiln drying is recommended. Ends should be sealed immediately after cutting using a clear aqueous wax end sealer to reduce checking.

AVAILABILITY: moderately to readily available, particularly as flooring and decking.

COST: moderate

NOTE: most reports say that the dust is an irritant (eye, skin, lungs)

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some reports say that it is so dense that it is fireproof, others that it will burn but just barely. One report says it has a fire rating of “class A” which is the same as concrete.

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generally very dark and free of knots or defects and rather oily looking

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The pores appear as fine yellow dots and contain yellowish lapachol powder which turns deep red in alkaline solutions. Texture is fine and appears oily. Fine ripple marks may be present.

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Its hardness is around 3,650psi (compare that to less than 1,500psi for maple, ash, and oak!).

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Numerous reports indicate that it is one of the finest quality decking materials available. One report states: "Testing by the US Navy in a 1962 Panama Canal study showed Ipe to be one of the top performers in resistance to decay, termites, and borers. It is perfect for exterior residential and commercial applications such as boatdocks, decking, boardwalks, outdoor furniture, pool decking, foot bridges, etc. It can be sealed to maintain its natural color and beauty, or allowed to weather to a beautiful silver gray color.This very dense wood requires no sealers or treatments for durability, ever. Because it is one of the earth’s most dense woods, Ipe remains smooth and splinter free. It will not absorb water, twist, splinter, or bow like softer woods. This means that if you use Ipe for your deck, you will be able to walk on it barefoot for a lifetime!"

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Coated or galvanized steel fasteners may be used, but they tend to have a shorter life span and may cause staining of the wood. Stainless steel screws are considered the best and they will also eliminate potential chemical reactions or staining at the fastener location.

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Ipe may be sealed upon installation to reduce the potential of checking. Penetrating oil based finishes are used with Ipe by most installers. Excessive application of oil based sealers may create a sticky surface and will not enhance or extend their performance. To maintain and keep the rich natural walnut-like color of Ipe, use a pigmented, penetrating oil sealer with UV inhibitors. Reapply as needed, or, if you wish the natural weathering to a silver gray, apply a penetrating oil based sealer during installation and do not reseal...ever.